Electrical Part Storm
Listed below are most of the electrical components needed to complete the project, although I will add the few remaining parts as I track down sources. All of the items below have been put on order.
J1772 plug/receptacle + 25ft cable
$230 – http://www.tucsonev.com/index.html
This is used to adapt normal household power to the type of plug that the EV charge receptacle uses. Frankly, with the cable included this is a good deal.
J1772 adapter box – J1772 EVSE
This is the J1772 inlet that will be mounted in the car, and that provides the proper pilot signal required to enable charging at a public charging station. Unless it sees the pilot from the car, the charger will not output the electrons.
Tyco LEV200A5NAA main contactor (for use specifically with Curtis HPEV system)
$110 – http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70062422
The contactor is a beefy relay that connects the battery power circuit to the controller/motor when the key is turned. The 24 VDC coil in this part is matched to the Curtis 1238-7601 controller.
Ferraz Shawmut A30QS500-4 fuse (up to 300V & 1000A controller)
$62.88 EVSource – http://www.evsource.com/tls_high_current_fuses.php
One of these is put in series with each battery pack to protect the controller from accidental power surges that could destroy it. It is a solid state fuse that breaks the circuit instantaneously, compared to a normal fuse that will not react quickly enough to save the sensitive controller circuitry.
2/0 gauge flexible welding cable – 30 feet needed
$3.60/ft – http://www.cableyard.com/RADAFLEX-Welding-Cable_c_1.html
Welding cable is commonly used in EV conversions to connect and transmit battery power to the motor/controller. A high degree of flexibility and an ability to handle large currents makes it ideal for this application.
Lugs for motor posts and battery cables – 18 needed (motor – 5/16″, battery terms = 8mm = .31496″ ~ 5/16″)
$2.24 – 3/8″ hole, 2/0 gauge – http://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!duty-Copper-Lugs/p_1012.h_92199.a_1.t_1
These are generally made of copper to allow the best conductivity, although they can be tin-coated to help resist corrosion. These will be crimped on to the ends of all cables for connection to battery, controller, and motor terminals.
Lug covers for motor posts and battery cables – 18 needed – large, 2/0 gauge
$4.00/pair – http://www.solarseller.com
These are the smallest lug covers offered, which will fit all of the 8mm bolts and 5/16″ nuts on the battery terminals and motor lugs.
$11.75 – http://www.cableyard.com/LENCO-Swedg-On-Tool_p_29.html
This is used to compress the lug sleeves onto the end of the cables. If done properly, a crimped lug can offer better conductivity than a soldered one.
$16.68 – http://www.delcity.net/store/Cable-Cutter/p_40418.a_1
A proper cable shear will provide the cleanest cut at the cable end, ensuring the best crimp joint and maximum conductivity.
NoAlox Anti-Corrosion Compound – for crimped lug barrels
$4.88 – http://www.evsource.com/tls_cabling_tools.php
This is a light paste that is applied to the crimped lugs to mitigate corrosion and preserve electrical conductivity.
Anderson Connector SB50 – 10-12 gauge wire leads
$10/pair, including contacts – http://www.solarseller.com
Anderson connectors are used for relatively high voltage/high current applications, such as the battery charger, DC/DC converter, and ceramic heater core. They provide a quick way to disconnect these items from their circuits for easy servicing.
Solid State AC Relay SSR with heat sink
$28.00 – http://minibms.mybigcommerce.com/products/Solid-State-AC-Relay-40-Amp.html
The relay is used by BMS to control the AC power to the charger. This is a important safeguard that can shut down the charger if the batteries are in danger of being overcharged. (**NOTE – This was later dropped because the Elcon charger has a built-in safety disable circuit that can be externally triggered by the Orion BMS.)
Radiator, 2x120mm 30-FPI Copper
$49.99 – http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=813
This radiator is normally used by computer geeks to cool electronic components with liquid, and is the perfect match to keep the Curtis motor controller in a comfortable temperature range. I will use the cooling plate sold by HPEV as an accessory to the motor/controller package.
Cooling Fan, 120x25mm, 90CFM, Blue LED
$10.99 x 2 – http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=684
Designed to bolt directly onto the top face of the radiator to chill the circulating coolant. The blue LED model did not cost more than the normal black model, so I went for the bling. It will look awesome when I pop the hood at night.
Coolant Pump, PMP-400
$69.99 – http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=334
This is the pump that will circulate the coolant through the radiator and cooling plate. I chose it because it’s super tough and low-profile, and allows for the mounting of a reservoir using an accessory adapter. It is completely sealed, uses a brushless motor, delivers 2.3 gallons a minute, and is rated for 50,000 hours of use. I can’t vouch for the noise level until I hear it in person.
Curtis PB-6 Potbox
$86 – http://www.kta-ev.com/Curtis_PB_6_Potbox_p/14281006.htm
The Curtis potentiometer is basically the throttle of the electric vehicle. It’s connected to the “gas” pedal via the accelerator cable that enters the motor compartment from the tunnel. Like a dimmer on your dining room wall, it tells the controller how much juice to send to the motor. (**NOTE – This potbox failed and was later replaced with a Hall Effect throttle.)