ElectroClassic EV
Classic Cars Reborn into the Electric Future

Fit to be Electrified

To wit: This post documents the momentous fitting of all the major EV electronic components into the tight quarters known as a 914.

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The DC-to-DC converter is being installed in the former gas tank compartment, on the shelf between the original fan box and the batteries. Above is the stand that was fabricated from 1/8 inch aluminum plate by Aero Welding in Culver City, matching a drawing I gave them. Using socket head screws allowed me to insert an Allen wrench in the top, which braced against the vertical plate while I tightened the nylock nuts from the other side, just above the pedal cluster.

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Here’s the Zivan NG1 DC-to-DC converter installed on the stand, giving enough room for the driver heater hose to pass underneath on its way to the electric heater box. In the absence of a normal 12 volt car battery and alternator, the DC-to-DC converter steps the total 115 VDC pack voltage down to 12 volts that all of the original accessories recognize, such as the lights, wipers, radio, horn, etc. Rubber vibration damping mounts were purchased from McMaster-Carr to reduce any stress on the internal electronics. My experience with McMaster-Carr has so far been stellar. In-stock items arrive no more than 2 business days after ordered online, which keeps the project from stalling for lack of parts.

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This is the passenger side of the fuel bay battery rack, which will house the Elcon PFC-2500 charger. Four lithium cells were originally planned for this space, but I swapped them into the front trunk after deciding the fuel bay provided better ventilation for the charger. An 1/8 inch aluminum plate was pop-riveted at each end for reinforcement, and then 6mm mounting holes were marked, punched and drilled. Shown above are the 1/2 inch thick rubber vibration damping mounts where the charger feet will attach.

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This is a perfect example of how the universe steps in to support good design decisions. While preparing to rig a mount for the charger in the battery rack, I discovered it fit magically into the available space. The sidelong orientation you see above is also the number one factory recommended position for optimum cooling effect. Go figure. Thanks, Universe.

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The electric ceramic core heater is being mounted in the former fuel tank compartment, on the passenger side of the bulkhead. Above shows the anti-vibration rubber mounts in place, ready for the heater/blower box to be bolted on. Inserting a toothed lock-washer between the rubber mount and the wall kept it from turning while I tightened the nut from the other side. The same is true for all of the rubber mounts in this blog entry.

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Here are the nuts under the right side of the dashboard that are holding the rubber heater mounts to the body. The carpet needed to be pulled away from the interior to complete this, and the 3M SuperTrim Adhesive did a great job of resisting my efforts. The weird brown thing is the original passenger footrest, which I refurbished earlier with a new coat of fiberglass resin.

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Shown above is the electric heater/blower box fully mounted on the bulkhead opposite the charger. The hoses will include an adapter that mates the 2 inch ducts on the heater to the 2-1/2 inch ducts on the original ventilation flapper boxes under the dash. This universal heater kit was purchased online from Can EV (Canadian Electric Vehicles, Ltd.). You may think it’s not such a great idea putting the charger and heater so close together, but neither will ever run at the same time. A ceramic core heater is a good choice for an EV because it is very efficient, delivering more heat from less energy, and it is self-regulating, needs no thermostat, and will not overheat.

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Here is the Curtis PB-6 electric throttle, otherwise known as the potbox, shown with the fabricated mounting bracket. The accelerator cable moves the lever at top left, which operates a potentiometer inside the box – essentially a dimmer switch. The further the lever moves, the faster the car goes. The exact width needed for the mounting bracket was determined by the length of raw accelerator cable beyond the sleeve. The short vertical side of the bracket will serve as the cable stay, while the potbox will mount on the longer side via four holes drilled at the punch marks seen above.

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The accelerator cable was fed upwards through a grommet in the former engine cooling deck, and reached comfortably to the passenger side bulkhead: a perfect spot to mount the potbox. Three holes were marked, punched, and drilled in the wall, and the potbox was installed. The three screws poked into the upper right wheel well on the other side, and were undercoated to protect from corrosion. The hanging gray wire will send a throttle signal to the 35 pin connector on the Curtis controller.

Next on the agenda is wiring all these toys together so they can communicate.

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