Power at Your Fingertips

This is a followup to the window motor install, focusing specifically on wiring the window toggle switches.  Finding the relevant schematic in the manual from SPAL was a little perplexing; much like trying to decipher the menu at Barney’s Beanery.  It aggregates wiring diagrams for several different window motor kits into one manual, with instructions in a half dozen languages.  Mine is the deluxe low-noise model, featuring 3 illuminated switches with 6 contacts per switch.  After puzzling over 13 possible diagrams, I was able to narrow it down to a single schematic at the bottom of page 84, based on my wire colors and pin configuration.  Once found, however, the diagram listed all of the wire colors correctly, and the connections were accurate. I hope this information helps somebody.

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Here are the connected driver side toggle switches.  One switch operates the driver window, and the other gives the driver control of the passenger window.  Since the process of installing the power window harness starts inside the driver door, the connectors on this side were already fully factory assembled, ready for the switches to plug right in.

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Shown here is the completed passenger side window toggle switch.  All of the passenger side wires are shipped raw and without connectors, keeping the frustration level down while snaking them through the driver door jamb, across the inner dashboard, and into the passenger door.  Once in position, you then hand-crimp the supplied connectors onto the wires, and slip them into the correct slots on the switch plug.  Voila!

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Here’s the new 12 VDC 10 amp regulated power supply I’m using to pretest my accessories and circuit paths. By selectively applying juice across individual circuit supply leads, I can test and troubleshoot each accessory separately, without involving (or possibly damaging) the rest of the electrical system.  Once all the switches, lights and servos check out individually, I can patch the regulated supply into the old lead-acid battery feeds, and test everything properly through the fuse panel.  I potentially could have used my 12v battery charger, but I potentially also could have fried the entire harness with unregulated power.  I’ll definitely be getting a lot more use out of this valuable tool.